With London Fashion Week Men’s celebrating its 5th birthday, its bespoke fashion success with inspired contribution to the global menswear stage is phenomenal – even at a fledgling stage. With marketing sales of menswear rising at a faster rate than womenswear, it now accounts for 27% of the total clothing market – 2% more than in 2016. With 750 catwalk shows from more than 200 brands, timeless Savile Row tailoring has been propped against emerging talent and heritage brands alike. This defines the fifth anniversary of LFWM, presenting London “at its open, global and creative best” states Justine Simons, London’s deputy mayor for culture.
Launching occasion with a new anniversary logo from Tracey Emin, shows ventured from the psychedelic to the formal, escaping to the cutting edge whilst also sitting pretty upon tradition. From the theatrics of club culture nostalgia with debut show from Charles Jeffrey, to relaxed accessible minimalism from Oliver Spencer, this men’s fashion week showed the modern man as adaptable and inquisitive. Perhaps then a major underpinning of the London style mood, romanticism in the capital is contained but broadminded. Whether prospects from tailoring titan Westwood, or ideas from Tinie Tempah’s secondary showcase from streetwear line ‘What we Wear,’ fever in London focused on bespoke sportsluxe with comfortable versions of tradition. Interchangeability inscribed rules of the wardrobe, pieces complimenting and mixing to create dynamic silhouettes, long-line jackets extending body and ideas of proportion and tidiness.
27% of male shoppers show a preference for purchasing British clothes, shoes and accessories.
With expected refinement combined with bursts of colour experiments, Alex Mullins becomes the first favourite of the summer show spectaculars. The perfect meeting ground for precision and progression, flowing denim cuts wrestled with a recurring oversized daisy print in leisured fits. In particular, a beige, deeply pocketed and double-breasted linen suit partnered with a white straight-leg jean caught our eye for setting a summery tone of spirit. Additionally, within the show Mullins gestured playful but exciting use of movement, breaching expectations of static menswear which holds to rigid forms. With silk scarves showing textured ease, let Mullins take you for a walk in the park.
With an ignited interest in cross-cultural exchange, Nicholas Daley seeks to celebrate alternative British narratives. Highlighting the historically significant binary of music and style, British designer Daley in this S/S 18 collection ‘Madras’ offers interpretations of checked cloth as fashion. With what appears a busy ensemble with layering, a clever nod is exhibited to traditional British craft. Within this showcase Daley has exceptionally sourced his fabrics from historic mills across Britain, particularly finest Yorkshire mill J.H Clissold & Son, established in 1910. With British Craftsmanship combining in influence of aesthetic from South Asian textiles, this debut collection is wealthy with reference and deeply wearable.
Quiet life, the title of the new collection from E.Tautz, reflects just that. With definite focus that this quiet sanctuary is all that head designer Patrick Grant desires, power blues were paired with warm greys and confident slates for colour tones. Decorated upon varying pin stripe patens for effect, E.Tautz provided trim tailoring with casual ease – creating quiet but polarising style. With inspiration in sighted from a young Jeremy Irons, shirts were complete with double pockets and silhouettes were soft with blouson jackets and often pleated trousers. With the Saville Row heritage of the brand staying firm, E.Tautz offers consistent classiness without complexity, dressing the true gentleman.
In keep with the mood of quiet understatement, Oliver Spencer in S/S 18 show ‘Love Town’ explored diversity in colour pallet and model choice from beginning to end. Tough resilience through use of utility wear was met with polite flavourings of summer cuts and relaxed fabrics, all in order to cater to the very British summer. With dusky pink just as much of a mainstay as Spencer’s cropped trousers, typical pieces were updated. This time the checkered trouser came in a larger print, and suits were finalised with collarless jackets, making smart casual a borderline easy to tread. With suede tobacco-coloured trousers and expensive blue tones, Spencer shows a levelled approach to Bespoke fashion with approachable taste.
To the best of Saville Row, and from Dunhill to Richard James, there really is no place like London.
With rapturous applause granted for the dedication to menswear shown in London, bespoke fashion has been allowed a platform to show strong heritage identities and progressive new ideas. With over 100 events harmonising with the catwalk calendar across the past week, LFWM is a parade all of its own.
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