Depending on your tastes, one of the more disappointing (or perhaps delightful) results of returning to a vegetable patch after the holidays is finding a proliferation of overgrown courgettes. I have always found the silky blandness of marrows both pleasing and comforting, but more fashionable eaters than me will complain of their watery flavourlessness. Here is my favourite treatment for them, devised by the genius chefs at Moro, Sam and Sam Clark, who have never cooked a tasteless morsel in their lives:
Fried Marrow with Caramelised Butter, Mint and Yoghurt (serves 4)
1 small young marrow, about 1kg
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
75g unsalted butter
¼ garlic clove
¼ teaspoon of cumin seeds, toasted then ground to a fine powder
150g greek yoghurt, thinned with 3-4 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon shredded fresh mint
a pinch of dried turkish (mild) chilli flakes or sumac
Top and tail your marrow, then peel it. Cut the marrow in half lengthways and scoop out the seeds and pulpy flesh with a metal spoon. Slice the marrow into half-moon shapes, the width of your index finger, toss them with the salt and put them in a colander and leave to stand for ten minutes. Pat dry with kitchen paper.
Heat the butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat until it caramelises, the solids should be turning a light brown. Fry the marrow in two batches for 2-3 minutes on each side, until lightly coloured. When the marrow is cooked it should be soft but not limp.
Crush the garlic with a pinch of salt until smooth then mix with the cumin, yoghurt and half the mint, then season with salt and pepper.
Serve the marrow with the yoghurt spooned on top, scattered with the chilli flakes or sumac and remaining mint.
Main image: Riverford
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